We eventually got away and had a superb sail over to Nisos Plati. As we approached Kalymnos the wind died (we call it the Kalymnos hole) and we motored up to the quay. Later we visited the Police Station with our passports, and then the Port Police with our boat papers to complete all the formalities. Finally we bought ice-creams in a quayside café to celebrate our successful re-entry into the EU.

We like Pothia as it is not too touristy, but there are now several souvenir shops and I feel that the tumbledown buildings in the old town might well become the subject of renovation and development soon – except for the dire economic situation.

The next day we sailed up the eastern side of Kalymnos to Xerocambos bay on Leros. The day began with a beat north into big waves and strong winds, but gradually the wind dropped and we had an interesting day tacking close to the island of Kalolimnos where landing is forbidden. We spent two nights at Xerocambos, before going round into Lakki and into the marina.

It was now mid July and very hot. We spent the week working our way through the multitude of jobs that are necessary to put the boat away for the year. Towards the end of the week David noticed that there was a problem with the end of one of the spreaders, so I hoisted him up the mast in the bosun’s chair so he could put the end piece back in and tape it up. The bosun’s chair is a piece of equipment we hadn’t used before and we were pleased that it seemed to be robust and David felt secure. I didn’t have too much trouble winching him up: it was easier then hoisting the sail when taking out a reef underway. Incidentally, the other piece of equipment we have never used is the sea-anchor or drogue. This is like a parachute that you drag along behind the boat when you are being hurtled along in very strong winds; I hope we never have to get it out of its packet!

Finally the boat was lifted out very proficiently and we left Leros the next day on the catamaran to Kos. We spent one night in Kos before catching our plane to London. In Kos the taxis were all on strike but fortunately our hotel reception found us a car and driver to take us to the airport. I thought it would cost a fortune, but in fact we were charged about the same as the usual taxi fare. This is the first time that we have actually been inconvenienced by the strikes that have been a feature of life in Greece for the past two years.

So another season completed. We enjoyed our trip to Turkey and covered 661 nautical miles. We did less motoring than in previous years and had some good days sailing. We plan to return to Turkey and sail north next year.

We continued to beat west to get round the Datça peninsula before the wind blew up again. First to Hayit Bükü (36° 41.03N 027° 34.36E) a rather remarkable place – a small bay, almost a cove, with a small jetty tucked behind the rocky headland. We were lucky: we got the last space on the jetty. A rather ramshackle but pretty resort has developed along the beach: all very low-key. We met a couple on a catamaran (room for two cats behind the jetty) who knew the place well and we shared a meal with them.

Then to Knidos in a spectacular position on the tip of the peninsula(36° 41.05N 027° 22.46E). The anchorage is next to – part of, really – the ruins of ancient Knidos, an important trading city from the 4th century BC. The harbour was one of a pair built by making a causeway to the island off the end of the peninsula. The northern one is silted up, but the southern one is still in use. So we anchored where the Greeks, the Romans, and everyone since has done. (Which is true of most natural harbours, I suppose.)

We visited Knidos five years ago by car, so we didn’t visit the ruins again. We remember that the ruins were inhabited by belligerent tortoises – belligerent amongst themselves, that is. The anchorage was fairly crowded, but emptied in the evening; a very pleasant place – if it’s calm. There is also a restaurant jetty which has just been extended further into the anchorage.

From Knidos we resolved to cross the gulf of Gökova to somewhere near Bodrum, depending on the wind. We got an brisk north-easterly that took us quickly to Kos, after which we beat north to Gümüslük (37° 03.42N 027° 13.96E). When we were last there, on a flotilla over ten years ago, it was a small village and we were the only boats there. It’s now a major resort, with a blue-flag beach and watersports. The anchorage was very crowded, and restricted by mooring buoys – we had to re-anchor when the wind changed and we swung into a small yacht on a buoy (which don’t swing like anchored boats). Another anchorage which will soon be unusable, I suspect.

Finally to the big posh marina here at Turgutreis where we intend to check out of Turkey tomorrow and sail for Kalymnos in Greece. The Rough Guide doesn’t like Turgutreis: “a sterile grid of streets…” and “the new yacht marina has as yet failed to lift the town’s image…”. Well, we think it’s OK: I don’t care about its image, it has shops, and the “grid of streets” makes it easy to remember where they are – often a problem in new places.

We took the bus to Bodrum to visit the excellent Museum of Underwater Archaeology which is in the castle. Excellent, that is, apart from the lack of any direction signs – we wandered at random about the courtyards and ramparts until we found the exhibits we knew were there. These include the artefacts and exhibitions based on the excavation of several ancient wrecks found in the seas off Turkey. They were well explained in English, too. There are some pictures on Flickr. Recommended.

In a few days we will be back at Evros Marina on Leros where Vigdis will be lifted out.

Some pictures here.

From Söğüt we sailed to Kurucu Bükü (36° 45.318N 027° 53.717E) an anchorage on the south side of the Datça peninsula – primarily to get some money from the ATM in the holiday village there. ‘Holiday village’ sounded unpromising but it fact it was rather charming – built some years ago among the pine trees, extensively planted, and with shaded pedestrian and bicycle paths winding through it. (It’s called ‘Aktur, Datça’ if you fancy going.) We were lucky to arrive on a Friday when there was an excellent food market (and other stuff) under the trees.

One disadvantage of resorts like this is that they often restrict anchoring. The pilot book said that there was ‘plenty of room to anchor off the beach in 5 to 10 metres’, but most of that had been buoyed off for swimming. What was left was deep and weedy. We managed to anchor anyway – at the third attempt – but several other boats had difficulty too and some gave up. But once you’re in it’s nice: our neighbours said they’d been coming since 1986!

We have two main problems anchoring. Firstly we only have 40 metres of chain – and 20m of rope which I regard as a reserve for storms. This means we can only comfortably anchor in about 10m of water, except in calm conditions, without using the rope. The pilot book often suggests anchoring in 5 to 10m – but in practice such places are often usurped by swimming areas and private mooring buoys, so you end up in 15m which means being off the end of the chain.

Secondly, in many anchorages boats will tie back to the shore, and often it’s so deep that it’s the only option. Tying back needs three people – one on the anchor, one on the helm, and one in the dinghy (or swimming) ashore. (Two people could probably do it if they have a bow thruster – which we don’t.) In anything other than a flat calm or an onshore wind it’s too difficult for us. Sometimes we do it nevertheless, but it relies too much on luck and everything going to plan for my liking. Tying back also needs more chain, for reasons too complicated to explain, and we sometimes run out of chain – and rope – before getting near enough to the shore. And a couple of big motor cruisers tied back, with 200m of anchor chain out, make it impossible to free swing there.

For all these reasons we are actively considering swapping our 40m of 10mm chain for 80m of 8mm chain (or whatever weighs the same). But it will be difficult and expensive. One for 2012 maybe.

We retreated to Keçi Bükü – better known as Orhaniye – right at the bottom of the Hisarönu gulf, to shelter from gales which were forecast over the Aegean and, more relevantly, the Datça peninsula. We anchored behind the island, which turned out to be very pretty and peaceful – though not the most sheltered spot. We took care to dig the anchor well into the mud and stayed there three nights while the wind blew and we skittered to and fro.

With the gales in the Aegean dying down we headed for Datça once again, first to Dirsek, a restaurant in a bay (36° 41.026N 027° 58.66E). Dirsek really is sheltered; we had been beating double-reefed into a force 5 but inside Dirsek Bükü it was flat calm. The restaurant there is excellent – we particularly like when you get to choose your own combination of starters, so you can avoid an excess of yogurt and aubergines.

This morning we left Dirsek to find the force 5 still blowing, so we resumed beating where we’d left off, arriving in Datça 5 hours later.

Datça has a new quay, with water and electricity, so we’re pretty comfortable. We’ll stay a couple of days.

Some pictures here.

Actually it’s Söğüt – but the chart omits the first two diacritics – and it’s pronounced ‘Surt’.

(Linguistic digression.) These characters make Turkish is a tricky language to translate. And I need to because I get text messages from Turkcell and I need to know if my SIM or credit or prepaid data allowance is about to expire, or they just selling me something. We have a dictionary: in it there are separate sections for u and ü, s and ş, i with and without a dot, etc. But the messages omit all diacritics (why?). So for one word in a message there may be several possibilities to look up. But many words in a message won’t be in the dictionary, they are compounds; you often have to look up each syllable separately.

Example: I got a text containing the word ‘ucretsizdir’. ‘ucret…’ is not in the dictionary under ‘u’ but ‘ücret’ means ‘charge’ and ‘siz’ is ‘without’. What the ‘dir’ means I don’t know, but ücretsizdir must mean ‘free of charge’. Which is reassuring, but what exactly is free and why they’re telling me I’ve no idea! (End digression.)

We’re back near Bozburun where we entered Turkey, and about to start the northbound section of our trip. We waited 2 days in Kaş for the sea to go down then motored into the wind and swell to Kalkan for an early start the next day. We avoided the harbour and went to the anchorage which was chock full of trip boats because the high winds and seas made that the only place they could go for the day. It was OK once they all left, but the wind still blew so we wondered if we’d have to stay next day too – not a pleasant prospect.

At dawn next day we motored round the headland to see what was happening. Little wind and a significant but dying swell, so we motored into it and reached Karacaören 6 hours later.

Then to Fethiye marina again for supplies and laundry. We like this marina – friendly staff, simple procedures, good supermarket, excellent showers… It’s focus is providing space and services to boats and their crews, not making money by leasing fancy shopping space. And Fethiye is a nice town too; we visited the archeological museum to see some of the stuff found at the sites we’d been to (and that wasn’t valuable enough to be hauled off to Istanbul – or the British Museum!)

To Deep Bay again where I pulled a muscle trying to pull the boat near enough to the shore to tie it on. It happens every year! And then to nearby Kapi Creek (36° 38.59N 028° 53.64E) for a meal with friends.

There were gales expected in the Aegean in a few days and we wanted to get round the headland at the western end of the Hisarönü peninsula before then: there were Force 6 headwinds forecast between there and Rhodes.

We sailed for two days, mostly beating (tacking) into headwinds: to Ekinçik where we moored off the beach (a nice spacious peaceful anchorage) and then back to the restaurant jetty at Çiftlik. Elaine did most of the sail handling while I took it easy on the wheel while my back recovered. Rather than another two days beating into increasing winds we opted to get up early and motor into what we thought would be an increasing headwind and a big swell to get around the headland. In fact, apart from a 15 minute blast of wind – during which we considered whether to raise a single- or double-reefed mainsail – it was mostly flat calm!

Today is a shore day. The Octopus restaurant here at Sogüt is nice, even somewhat luxurious! It also has a good swimming area. There are gales out in the Aegean but here it’s pretty windless so we’re having a day at ease.

Some pictures here.

We’re back in Kaş after a week in Kekova Roads. We’re anchored in the bay opposite the marina. It’s a shorter and pleasanter walk from here into Kaş – though we have to row to the beach first. We also suspected that the marina had now started charging – which turned out to be true – and that we might need to stay several days.

Now that the sun is shining, and the days are long, we’re finding that the two solar panels and the new batteries are keeping the fridge going. Nearly all the lights are now LEDs, and in the middle of the day there is plenty of power to charge computers and suchlike. So shore power is less valuable and marinas less attractive.

While in Kekova Roads we anchored in Üçağız Limani (Limani means bay or harbour) which is a big, almost landlocked, bay which is itself off the sheltered Kekova Roads. (36° 11.563N 029° 50.430E) This is a perfect anchorage – big enough to swallow a fleet of ships, mostly shallow (less than 5 metres), with a village – Üçağız (we called it ‘Ooch’) – from which to buy basic supplies. Most people anchor off the village but you can go into the far corners to get some peace – there was a dredger making a lot of noise. There are also (new) pontoons with electricty for those who want it. The only negative is the water quality – we didn’t fancy swimming in it.

At the far end of this lake (as it would probably be called in England) there was a French boat which seemed to be having a Swallows and Amazons experience. The children sailed about in a spritsail-rigged wooden dinghy – a bit like a home-made Oppie. The parents also sailed it into Ooch most evenings – and once dropped the children off so they could find their own way back by walking round the shore and then using canoes.

From Ooch we dinghied over to Kaleköy – a small, picturesque, (and fairly primitive) village with ancient sunken harbour and overlooked by an imposing medieval castle. Kaleköy must be visited by a hundred trip boats a day, which circulate round the Roads visiting the ruins, which are everywhere. We also sailed round Kekova Island itself and tacked up the narrow channel – which turned out to be a hazardous enterprise given the huge number of trip boats and gulets all heading home at speed.

Kekova Roads is as far east as we decided to go. So a long beat back to Kaş and to a restaurant pier at the southern end of Bayindir Limani (36° 10.385N 029° 38.967E). This place had been recommended to us, and it was nice – a clean swimming area with a boom to keep the muck from blowing in, and good simple food. (After ordering our food we were a bit surprised to be asked “and when would you like it?” But in retrospect this would have been a good thing to establish in many a restaurant! In fact the food turned up quite quickly – beating our expectations.)

The plan now is to return to Fethiye, which starts with a longish leg north-west round the ‘seven capes’. The wind has been blowing from the north-west for the past week and we would prefer that to stop, or back south-west, which it is not forecast to do for several days. So a few days here perhaps …

Some pictures here.

Kalkan harbour can be difficult to leave – not because we liked it but because it’s a mess of crossed anchors. The harbour is narrow; the gulets and trip boats drop their anchors right across the other side, so snarl-ups are inevitable.

A yacht (A) came in on our right, anchored cleanly and the crew disappeared off somewhere. A trip boat from the opposite side of the harbour then picked up their anchor and dropped it over ours and that of boat B to our left. Either they didn’t care or they did it deliberately.

We tried to leave but failed; we couldn’t pull up A’s anchor with ours so we tied up again. I went out with B’s crew in a dinghy and together we tried to pull A’s anchor out but failed again – it was caught round B’s anchor chain. B wanted to leave so paid a diver to lift A’s anchor over their chain. This left us with little alternative but to pay too – 50TL (about £20 – cheap for a diver) to lift A’s anchor over ours, otherwise another yacht might have arrived before A returned and lay their anchor over both ours and A’s. So the trip boat’s action cost both us and B money, and left A with an unsecured boat and possible damage. It’s called supporting the local economy.

Anyway, a brisk sail to the new Marina at Kaş, which is free (even the electricity is free!) because, we are told, they do not have a licence to operate it yet. Nice facilities, and flashy – though not well designed in my opinion, and I’m not sure how well it will cope with hundreds of boats. It’s a 20 minute walk into Kaş which is a really pleasant town.

We hired a car and visited some three ancient sites west of Kaş. Patara was a big city, and the ruins are extensive. It had a fine theatre. Letoon was small but interesting – partly flooded. It had a theatre too. Xanthos was an important centre – another theatre, with built in Lycean tombs.

Today we sailed east to an area called the Kekova Roads where there are many sheltered anchorages. (Enter the latitude and longitude at the top into Google Earth). This one is beautiful and peaceful – just three boats anchored. We’ll spend several days in this area.

Some pictures here.

We sailed to Ecinçik, and then next day on to Skopea Limani near Goçek. We went across to Deep Bay where we picked up one of the new mooring buoys we had read about; anchoring is theoretically prohibited and you must tie back to an official post, not a tree or a rock. We could see the orange mooring post on the shore, but it was more than 50m away – the buoy was meant for a much larger boat. Anyway after a cup of tea and waiting for the wind to drop David launched the dinghy and managed to pull and push Vigdis towards the shore using oars and tie it back using out 50m mooring reel to the post. We had a nice swim and pleasant evening.

Next morning dawned wet and cold. We resorted to socks and slippers: not exactly what you would expect in Turkey in late May. It thundered and poured with rain all day, so we stayed put. We had hoped our new solar panel would keep the fridge running, but there was no sun!

On Sunday, a fast afternoon sail to Fethiye Ece marina. There were scores of yachts out, enjoying the afternoon breeze. We had just tied up in Fethiye when the rain started again. Two cups of tea later we were able to get off the boat to go and check in and get provisions.

On Monday, we left Fethiye about midday after another downpour. We sailed slowly towards Karacaören, which is an anchorage tucked behind a reef. There was a Sunsail flotilla in, but the restaurant lad helped us tie up to one of their buoys, and tie us back to the shore. It was idyllic, and later in the restaurant we had “lobster in the oven” – which turned out to be crayfish. The owner put on something of a performance serving the food and also played his violin to entertain everyone.

Today, Tuesday, we left at 08:00 to catch the forecast wind – which didn’t materialise. We motored for 3 hours, before we were able to sail very slowly on a broad reach to Kalkan’s crowded harbour. Kalkan is now taken over by tourism: restaurants, bars and shops selling tourist tat. It reminds me of any number of other places we have visited from Sicily, through Greece to Turkey.

Tomorrow we hope to sail to Kaş.

Some pictures here.

Marmaris is a big tourist resort and when we arrived it was swarming with passengers from a cruise ship docked in the harbour. We came here to get the anchor winch fixed and to buy things.

We know Marmaris pretty well having spent a week here 5 years ago. Marmaris is stuffed with yachty shops and services – there must be more chandlers here than in the whole of Greece!

The anchor winch was fixed within 6 hours of arriving. Thank you Marlin Yachting – impressive service.

There followed two days of constant activity during which we got a Turkcell phone SIM for mobile internet access, replaced the batteries, bought some tools and spares (much cheaper than in Greece), looked for but failed to find a 4-person liferaft to replace our 6-person one (which is too big and heavy), replaced the anchor swivel with a shackle, did some engine maintenance, got the laundry done, and bought provisions.

Getting a Turkish phone SIM was not straightforward; there is a requirement to register a single phone against each SIM (to counter illegal phone imports). More info here if you want to know:

We bought the new batteries because we concluded that the old ones were shot: they were 5 years old and for the first 4 of those they were completely neglected – left to discharge during the winter layups. We now have 3 Korean ‘Rocket’ brand 80Ah ones – quite cheap. Time will tell whether the new batteries plus the new solar panels will keep the fridge going.

After all that we now resume our holiday: east to Ekinçik beyond.

Some pictures here.

We stayed in Nisiros two days while the wind blew force 5/6. Only charter boats entered or left during that period. Then early on the third day all the owner boats left, including us, at first light on what was forecast to be a dying wind. In the event we had a fine quick reachy sail the 35 miles to Simi. Plenty of room in the harbour there, which was highly organised by a pair of moorers – we were directed to moor on the south side outside the Gati bar (which turned out to be a nightclub playing techno music till the small hours – avoid if possible!)

Simi harbour is five-star picturesque. We climbed up the steps to the chora above it.

We checked out of Greece and sailed the short distance to Bozburun in Turkey. This has been a Port of Entry only since 2010 so not so busy yet. We understood that we needed an agent to carry out the entry formatities which are computerised – immigration, visas, cruising log, etc. Following a recommendation on the YBW forums we got Atlas Yachting to do this – it cost €87 plus £20 for the visas. It was straightforward except we had to provide information we hadn’t been asked for since Italy – gross and net tonnage for example.

I had hoped to get a Turkish phone SIM for internet access in Bozburun but there was no phone shop. So we’ve been relying on phone signals from Simi or Rhodes, or restaurants as here in Çiftlik

We left the next day and went round to Bozuk Buku (aka Loryma) for a bit of peace after all these quaysides. This is a big sheltered inlet – when we were last here 10 years ago it had one ramshackle restaurant with a pier; now it has three! Plenty of room to anchor, though, which we did.

When we were last here there were some gypsy girls selling trinkets from a rowing boat at the restaurant pier. There are now three much older girls driving dories with outboards who converge on incoming boats, selling trinkets, nuts, dried fruit, and souvenirs. We called them ‘the predators’ (they reminded me of the natives in canoes following the steamboat in “Fitzcarraldo”) though they’re quite friendly – we bought a towel.

Visited the impressive ancient citadel again – and got caught in a thunderstorm. We retreated to the restaurant below just in time to avoid being out in a hailstorm! This weather is not typical for mid May in Turkey.

Then here to Çiftlik, mostly a dead run, and much of it goosewinged (we don’t have a chute) but, unusually, one where the wind shifts steered us perfectly around the shoals and through the gaps behind islands, overtaking those forced to gybe about.

We’re dawdling towards Marmaris where we hope to get the anchor winch fixed. The agent for Quick in Marmaris has been in touch by email and having posted on the YBW forum I’m sure it only needs a new oil seal. We’re dawdling in order to avoid arriving at the weekend, hence we’re staying two nights on the pier here at the Deniz restaurant. Free wifi – unfortunately connected to an extremely flaky internet connection which seems to be shared with the restaurant next door :(

Some pictures here.

The weather for the time of year is cold. We are wearing fleeces and vests and I have fished my old slippers out to wear around the boat.

Changes.

Some things don’t change: at the airport we had to wait outside whilst the officials tried to find the correct keys to open the doors to the arrivals hall. And after the taxi ride to Kos town our hotel was being redecorated and was not really usable, but they hadn’t bothered to let us know. We stayed the one night, as our room was OK but I would not have stayed any longer. Dust and noise and spray paint – just like the boatyard.

Lakki has changed a bit; I think it’s going up in the world. A new ATE bank in one of the renovated Italian style buildings, a rather posh jewellers and some other new shops. The pavements are still unusable, weedy, stone strewn obstacle-courses, but the town seems more alive. Kalymnos port, Pothia has also changed for the better too – more later.

Leros (Evros) boatyard has also developed. On the floor beneath the office in the new main building there is “Skippers” cafe/restaurant. There is a nice looking terrace with umbrellas, but it was too cold and windy to sit up there. There is a new chandlery in the buildings next to the workshop; it is open but apparently not yet fully stocked. It was quite flashy and had a sort of balcony round the top. No new showers or laundry yet and the showers were really overloaded, as the boatyard was busy launching boats and the marina was pretty full.

The folding bike bought on ebay and sent out by Parcelforce is a great success. It was very useful for getting into Lakki to get bread etc. and we found it great to get about the boatyard. Now it’s in its bag on board it doesn’t take up as much room as we feared.

Having arrived on Thursday we were put back in the water on Monday afternoon and we left on Tuesday morning: the forecast for the end of the week was for strong winds and we did not want to spend another five days in Lakki. We hadn’t finished all the jobs and the dinghy is still in the main cabin but we had got the sails on and David had put in the electrical connections for the new solar panel. He also hadn’t investigated the source of the oil that seemed to be leaking from the anchor winch – that is he hadn’t worked out how to get at the anchor winch without dismantling the front cabin!

Sailing again.

We sailed south to Pothia on Kalymnos. The harbour in Pothia has been reorganised since we were last there. The fishing boats are all in the south-west corner where yachts previously moored. The ferries still go onto the ferry quay, but the yachts have a new concrete quay built out from the restaurant terraces and the road. We were beckoned in by Theo opposite his restaurant: he was helpful, connected up the electricity, and later we ate a good inexpensive meal there.

Pothia seems to be going up in the world too. There are huge new circular rubbish bins on the seafront. They are six feet in diameter – really impressive. I hope they empty them.

In Kalymnos we fitted the new solar panel. It’s a 32W flexible one, stuck to the bimini with Velcro which we had sewed on over the winter and some ties. We then wasted a good hour or two trying to get our camping gaz bottle exchanged or refilled. We were directed here and there and even told to take a taxi to the factory to get it filled. We didn’t, as we wanted to leave and get on our way to Kos.

The next day we set off (the anchor windlass squeaks now) and beat slowly towards Kos for a few hours, but in the late afternoon a thunderstorm developed so we stopped sailing and motored quickly the rest of the way to the marina. At the marina we were kept standing off the entrance for about 15 minutes and had to remind them we were there; we were eventually put on the end of pontoon B facing the entrance. We might as well have anchored outside for all the shelter it gave us from the swell. We had lots to do so David went to the office, I got the laundry off to be done overnight and then David managed to get at the anchor winch and set about dismantling it to determine from where the oil was leaking. (It turned out to be a gearbox oil seal – which could be expensive since the manual only lists the entire gearbox in the list of spares.) It went very dark about 17.30 and there was a huge thunderstorm with pouring rain and hailstones, which washed the dust off the boat. We ate on board!

We had a bad night’s sleep with the boat bouncing around in the swell and in the morning found that it was blowing F5/F6 with quite rough seas outside the marina – not really suitable to sail to Nissyros (23 nautical miles). Friday’s forecast was for F6 and F7. We realised we could do with staying till Saturday but as the office could not promise a place for Friday night we decided to leave asap.

Kostas in the marina chandlery was very helpful in locating a gaz bottle, and offered to find out the cost of a replacement gearbox for the anchor winch and email it. (Which he did – given the cost we’ll try and get it repaired!)

We left at 10.30 and sailed south with one reef. We later put in another reef and sailed with just the main for a while. The wind was mostly between 20-22 knots with some bigger gusts. An exciting sail (sometimes over 7 knots with as little sail as we could manage) but one I would prefer not to have to do every day.

We are now in Nissyros waiting for wind and seas to go down before a sail to Simi to check out of Greece. Aphrodite restaurant was as good as ever.

Some pictures on Flickr as usual, starting here.