Back in the UK

We checked out of Turgutreis and re-entered Greece in Kalymnos town (Pothia). There was a bit of a hiccup in Turgutreis when we were called back to the passport office and customs as were leaving the marina. At customs they had confused us with the ferry passengers and we had not filled in the correct forms, so we were called back to go to the office a second time.

We eventually got away and had a superb sail over to Nisos Plati. As we approached Kalymnos the wind died (we call it the Kalymnos hole) and we motored up to the quay. Later we visited the Police Station with our passports, and then the Port Police with our boat papers to complete all the formalities. Finally we bought ice-creams in a quayside café to celebrate our successful re-entry into the EU.

We like Pothia as it is not too touristy, but there are now several souvenir shops and I feel that the tumbledown buildings in the old town might well become the subject of renovation and development soon – except for the dire economic situation.

The next day we sailed up the eastern side of Kalymnos to Xerocambos bay on Leros. The day began with a beat north into big waves and strong winds, but gradually the wind dropped and we had an interesting day tacking close to the island of Kalolimnos where landing is forbidden. We spent two nights at Xerocambos, before going round into Lakki and into the marina.

It was now mid July and very hot. We spent the week working our way through the multitude of jobs that are necessary to put the boat away for the year. Towards the end of the week David noticed that there was a problem with the end of one of the spreaders, so I hoisted him up the mast in the bosun’s chair so he could put the end piece back in and tape it up. The bosun’s chair is a piece of equipment we hadn’t used before and we were pleased that it seemed to be robust and David felt secure. I didn’t have too much trouble winching him up: it was easier then hoisting the sail when taking out a reef underway. Incidentally, the other piece of equipment we have never used is the sea-anchor or drogue. This is like a parachute that you drag along behind the boat when you are being hurtled along in very strong winds; I hope we never have to get it out of its packet!

Finally the boat was lifted out very proficiently and we left Leros the next day on the catamaran to Kos. We spent one night in Kos before catching our plane to London. In Kos the taxis were all on strike but fortunately our hotel reception found us a car and driver to take us to the airport. I thought it would cost a fortune, but in fact we were charged about the same as the usual taxi fare. This is the first time that we have actually been inconvenienced by the strikes that have been a feature of life in Greece for the past two years.

So another season completed. We enjoyed our trip to Turkey and covered 661 nautical miles. We did less motoring than in previous years and had some good days sailing. We plan to return to Turkey and sail north next year.

Turgutreis, Turkey

37° 00.207N 027° 15.330E

We continued to beat west to get round the Datça peninsula before the wind blew up again. First to Hayit Bükü (36° 41.03N 027° 34.36E) a rather remarkable place – a small bay, almost a cove, with a small jetty tucked behind the rocky headland. We were lucky: we got the last space on the jetty. A rather ramshackle but pretty resort has developed along the beach: all very low-key. We met a couple on a catamaran (room for two cats behind the jetty) who knew the place well and we shared a meal with them.

Then to Knidos in a spectacular position on the tip of the peninsula(36° 41.05N 027° 22.46E). The anchorage is next to – part of, really – the ruins of ancient Knidos, an important trading city from the 4th century BC. The harbour was one of a pair built by making a causeway to the island off the end of the peninsula. The northern one is silted up, but the southern one is still in use. So we anchored where the Greeks, the Romans, and everyone since has done. (Which is true of most natural harbours, I suppose.)

We visited Knidos five years ago by car, so we didn’t visit the ruins again. We remember that the ruins were inhabited by belligerent tortoises – belligerent amongst themselves, that is. The anchorage was fairly crowded, but emptied in the evening; a very pleasant place – if it’s calm. There is also a restaurant jetty which has just been extended further into the anchorage.

From Knidos we resolved to cross the gulf of Gökova to somewhere near Bodrum, depending on the wind. We got an brisk north-easterly that took us quickly to Kos, after which we beat north to Gümüslük (37° 03.42N 027° 13.96E). When we were last there, on a flotilla over ten years ago, it was a small village and we were the only boats there. It’s now a major resort, with a blue-flag beach and watersports. The anchorage was very crowded, and restricted by mooring buoys – we had to re-anchor when the wind changed and we swung into a small yacht on a buoy (which don’t swing like anchored boats). Another anchorage which will soon be unusable, I suspect.

Finally to the big posh marina here at Turgutreis where we intend to check out of Turkey tomorrow and sail for Kalymnos in Greece. The Rough Guide doesn’t like Turgutreis: “a sterile grid of streets…” and “the new yacht marina has as yet failed to lift the town’s image…”. Well, we think it’s OK: I don’t care about its image, it has shops, and the “grid of streets” makes it easy to remember where they are – often a problem in new places.

We took the bus to Bodrum to visit the excellent Museum of Underwater Archaeology which is in the castle. Excellent, that is, apart from the lack of any direction signs – we wandered at random about the courtyards and ramparts until we found the exhibits we knew were there. These include the artefacts and exhibitions based on the excavation of several ancient wrecks found in the seas off Turkey. They were well explained in English, too. There are some pictures on Flickr. Recommended.

In a few days we will be back at Evros Marina on Leros where Vigdis will be lifted out.

Some pictures here.