36° 42.971N 028° 14.274E
We stayed in Nisiros two days while the wind blew force 5/6. Only charter boats entered or left during that period. Then early on the third day all the owner boats left, including us, at first light on what was forecast to be a dying wind. In the event we had a fine quick reachy sail the 35 miles to Simi. Plenty of room in the harbour there, which was highly organised by a pair of moorers – we were directed to moor on the south side outside the Gati bar (which turned out to be a nightclub playing techno music till the small hours – avoid if possible!)
Simi harbour is five-star picturesque. We climbed up the steps to the chora above it.
We checked out of Greece and sailed the short distance to Bozburun in Turkey. This has been a Port of Entry only since 2010 so not so busy yet. We understood that we needed an agent to carry out the entry formatities which are computerised – immigration, visas, cruising log, etc. Following a recommendation on the YBW forums we got Atlas Yachting to do this – it cost €87 plus £20 for the visas. It was straightforward except we had to provide information we hadn’t been asked for since Italy – gross and net tonnage for example.
I had hoped to get a Turkish phone SIM for internet access in Bozburun but there was no phone shop. So we’ve been relying on phone signals from Simi or Rhodes, or restaurants as here in Çiftlik
We left the next day and went round to Bozuk Buku (aka Loryma) for a bit of peace after all these quaysides. This is a big sheltered inlet – when we were last here 10 years ago it had one ramshackle restaurant with a pier; now it has three! Plenty of room to anchor, though, which we did.
When we were last here there were some gypsy girls selling trinkets from a rowing boat at the restaurant pier. There are now three much older girls driving dories with outboards who converge on incoming boats, selling trinkets, nuts, dried fruit, and souvenirs. We called them ‘the predators’ (they reminded me of the natives in canoes following the steamboat in “Fitzcarraldo”) though they’re quite friendly – we bought a towel.
Visited the impressive ancient citadel again – and got caught in a thunderstorm. We retreated to the restaurant below just in time to avoid being out in a hailstorm! This weather is not typical for mid May in Turkey.
Then here to Çiftlik, mostly a dead run, and much of it goosewinged (we don’t have a chute) but, unusually, one where the wind shifts steered us perfectly around the shoals and through the gaps behind islands, overtaking those forced to gybe about.
We’re dawdling towards Marmaris where we hope to get the anchor winch fixed. The agent for Quick in Marmaris has been in touch by email and having posted on the YBW forum I’m sure it only needs a new oil seal. We’re dawdling in order to avoid arriving at the weekend, hence we’re staying two nights on the pier here at the Deniz restaurant. Free wifi – unfortunately connected to an extremely flaky internet connection which seems to be shared with the restaurant next door :(
Some pictures here.
